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Anyway its complexity but it is also a bit too concentrated to Cartier watches

Le 18 December 2014, 06:54 dans Humeurs 0

This automatic movement is nicely finished and decorated, quite appealing with the leap year indicator on the back side. But it is not as spectacular as the Earth and Moon one. The Astrocalendar, despite 2mm less than the earth and Moon is obviously a large watch. But it is the price to pay to get this spectacular area dedicated to the Perpetual Calendar data and the flying tourbillon. Our eyes are attracted by the tourbillon and we almost forget the time display on the top of the dial! An innovative and intriguing watch.

Let's stay with a similar case size with the Rotonde de Cartier tourbillon chronograph. We find again the caliber 9438MC coming from Renaud&Papi in this Rotonde context (we previously saw it with the Pasha tourbillon chronograph). It features a minutes & seconds chronograph and a tourbillon with a 8 days power reserve. Despite a rather classic context, it contains several original details like the power reserve indicator or the vertical bridge of the tourbillon. I appreciate the dial lay-out of this watch even if I'm sure that, due to the subdials locations and the diameter of the movement (34, 6mm), the watch could have been a bit smaller and much thinner. The movement gives a strange feeling: it is at the same time very enjoyable to observe thanks to its flawless finishings and its complexity but it is also a bit too concentrated and not homogeneously spread over the plate. Anyway, it remains a top handwind chronograph movement.

The Rotonde tourbillon chronograph is another impressive novelty from Cartier even if it doesn't have the same impact than the others of the high-end segment: its movement is not new and it lacks the magic side of the Earth and Moon or the Astrocalendar. Let's say it is dedicated to clients who look for a high horology Cartier watch with a more familiar context. We enter a different dimension now with the Rotonde Cartier Day and night with retrograde moonphases. We all know the famous panerai Luminor replica with the Day and night display on the top half and the numerals on the bottom half. It was one of my fav Cartier watches ever thanks to its charming way to display the hours with the Moon and the Sun. This watch created a different way to apprehend the flow of time with the slow motion of the top disk.

The watch is released again, featuring now an additional complication: the retrograde moonphases. The consequence is a larger case (43, 5mm vs 42mm) but hopefully, the new Rotonde Day and night stays very refined thanks to a balanced diameter/thickness (12, 77mm) ratio. I have to confess that the choice of the additional complication is perfect. Actually, the watch uses the moon twice and it gives an almost mysterious atmosphere to this Rotonde. When you look at it for the first time, you don't understand how to read the time. But you quickly understand that you only have to follow the sun and the moon on the top while the minutes are indicated by a classic hand. The Rotonde Day and night, available in Pink Gold or in Palladium, is powered by the automatic movement 9912MC. Once again, Cartier improved the visual rendering of the movement which is nice to observe through the sapphire caseback despite, maybe, the feeling to be a bit too small for the case (this feeling doesn't exist dial side). I had a lot of pleasure to put this Rotonde on the wrist: its originality, the way the retrograde moonphase display decorates the dial and the beauty of the day&night disk make this watch very appealing.

Despite the purety of the design with Cartier watches will be crucial for the strategy of the brand

Le 18 December 2014, 06:53 dans Humeurs 0

The collection presented this year is very important. Not only because of its quality, of its size. It is very important because it gathers some pieces which will be crucial for the strategy of the brand. I take only one example: the Calibre de Cartier Diver Watch is in my point of view, along maybe with the Automatic Reverso, the most strategic piece of the Salon. Why? Simply because Cartier has high expectations with it when it comes to sales figures and because it allows Cartier to enter a new territory, the segment of "casual" or "sports" watches.

I propose you to discover the key pieces of this collection with a brief description of them and my first feelings. Of course, I will have the opportunity to come back with detailed presentations during the year. This watch is a perfect demonstration of the expertise of the Cartier Manufacture but at the same time, I consider it as the meeting point AAA+Breitling Navitimer 01 Replica Watches UK Best Holiday Gift Ideas two universes: the universe of fine watchmaking and the universe of elegance.

Being a Tank Louis Cartier, the watch has very balanced proportions with a very slender style enhanced by the flat case sides. I love the contrast between the circular shape of the main bridge of the movement and the rectangular shape of the case. I love the feeling given by the movement which seems to float inside the case. Despite the purety of the design, the horological contents of the watch are also visible. At the top of the movement, we can observe the presence of the two barrels. The watch has a power reserve of 72 hours for a 4 hz frequency. It means that the power provided by the barrels is more used to influence the thrust and the accuracy than to get a longer power reserve. And honestly, winding the watch is such a beautiful experience (also for the eyes! )#) that i would not be happy to not do it on a daily basis!

The back of the movement is as beautiful as the front side. The watch is successful because it manages to perfectly integrate some details that are usually a bit out of context in skeleton watches like the barrels and the incabloc. Look at the balance wheel: it seems to be so delicate with its very thin and shy bridge... The case size is well defined (30mm x 39, 2mm), not too large, not too small, to take advantage of the visual effect given by the movement without losing the refined style this watch requires. On the wrist, the Tank Louis Cartier skeleton watch has a strong presence thanks to the mesmerizing movement. A true beauty and a star of the Salon. The Rotonde de Cartier Earth and Moon was already known by the SIHH visitors since the press release was issued at the end of the year. It features a very unusal complication: the moonphase... on demand! But this poetic complication doesn't have to make us forget about the two others: the flying tourbillon and the second timezone display. Actually, the main interest of the watch is the way it plays with the tourbillon.